Fort McDowell was established in 1865 as Camp McDowell to protect trade routes from the Verde and Salt Rivers and as a base of operations against the Tonto Apache until 1890 when it was abandoned. It then became a reservation for the Yavapai. For Phoenix residents, "Fort McDowell" is best known today as a casino. The original fort has not been preserved and these remains will probably completely disappear by 2020.

The Stoneman Military Route

The Stoneman Road, an important supply road between Fort McDowell and Fort Whipple in Prescott between 1870 and 1890. It was an important conduit for the shipping of supplies from Fort Whipple in Prescott to Fort McDowell on what is today the Yavapai Reservation near Fountain Hills. 
     Established in 1865, Fort McDowell was continuously short on supplies and before the Stoneman Road was established, the shortages were especially acute as the connection between the forts required a long route that swung south through Phoenix and north to Prescott. With the establishment of the Stoneman Road, a day’s ride was eliminated from the trip. The new route was named after forty-eight year old Colonel George Stoneman, a Civil War veteran and career Army man by way of West Point. He was assigned to Arizona in May, 1870 and although he was relieved of his Arizona duties one year later, his establishment of the road between Fort McDowell and Fort Whipple was a major accomplishment of his brief command.  Stoneman was a trailblazer and sought a way to Prescott that would avoid the southern route. He found his route by following an old Indian trail that covered part of the distance. The trail was widened into a rocky road that led northwest from Fort McDowell through what is now McDowell Mountain Regional Park, and passed to the north of Pinnacle Peak. It’s believed that soldiers may have camped in the area which is now near 136th Street and Rio Verde Drive.
     The road then passed near what would later become Brown’s Ranch and eventually touched the eastern boundary of the area where The Boulder’s resort is located today in north Scottsdale. From there it went past the northern slope of Black Mountain and continued west to Cave Creek. A bubbling spring near what is now Rancho Manana, provided a nice respite for weary travelers.  After that it was north along the banks of Cave Creek and crossing into what is now Cave Creek Regional Park. From there it passed through the New River Mountains and Black Canyon, then went north through Mayer to Fort Whipple and Prescott.
     On April 10, 1890, Fort McDowell was vacated by the US military and became the Fort McDowell Indian Reservation which served the Mohave, Pima, and Apache tribes. As far as the Stoneman Road, with the lack of traffic on it after 1890 combined with the attrition of time and the Arizona weather, only minimal traces are left.

A historical task force has discovered portions of the road in parts of McDowell Mountain Park and near the old Brown’s Ranch location near north Scottsdale. Another discernible section runs between Stagecoach Pass at Windmill Road northwest to Cave Creek Road ending by a gate going into the Carefree Airport.  Running east to west, south of Cave Creek Road, is a short section of the Military Road which is part of the old Stoneman Road. It originally ran toward Cave Creek and by what is thought to be a military remount station from the 1870-1890 era. Other than that, the road has pretty much succumbed to the sands of time.

Mountain Bike-wise its a bit too sandy to really enjoy. Think running on the beach in deep deep sand. 

Thompson Peak

Due to the antennae on top and its visibility from Shea Blvd and East Scottsdale, Thompson Peak (elev. 3983) is perhaps one of the more easily recognized peaks of the McDowell Mountains. The trail is designed for a jeep. Plenty of wildlife: hawks, quail, javalinas,and if you go early enough you'll hear and see coyotes. Its very remote and quiet. One of those places where you can hear the wind breezing through the desert. Dont forget to take plenty of water.  I've yet to learn the story behind its name.  The photos here show the final ascent to the summit, summit, and view from the NE.

Tom's Thumb McDowell Mountains

Tom's Thumb (3.925ft.) on the right is a vast granite outcropping at the northern end of the McDowell Mountains. It can be seen from most of north Scottsdale and is a very popular rock climbing location.Tom's Thumb is a notable McDowell Mountain landmark named after Tom Kreuser, one of the patriarchs of Valley rock climbers who first ascended it in 1964.  this view is from the East side.

The original Fort McDowell

Sitting on the remains of what was once the Ft. McDowell officer's quarters.

Just behind the church and perhaps 50 yards behind (SSE) of the “fireplace” ruin were what looked to be two large cisterns or wells a few feet apart with their tops three feet above ground.  These were once cisterns at the original Ft. McDowell and may be the remains of the two small structures in the center right of the old b/w 1905 photo.

About 5 miles past the casino on Ft. McDowell Rd., these are the only surviving remnants (2011) of the original Fort McDowell.  Established September 7, 1865 along the west bank of the Rio Verde, this was once a vital military installation located seven miles north of the confluence of the Rio Verde (Verde River) and Rio Salado (Salt River).  The Fort was built to protect trade the trade routes of the Verde and Salt Rivers. It was abandoned in 1890 and became a reservation for the Yavapai. For Phoenix residents, "Fort McDowell" is best known today as a casino. The original fort has not been preserved and there are no markers or plaques to indicate you're on a historical site.   

Hohokum Canals

To the untrained eye this doesnt look like much but its actually the remnants of canals that were dug by the Hohokum in Mesa, AZ.  Whenever I go to our Mesa campus I'm reminded of these ancient people as i cross the canal. and i pray that God will use me to make a mark on culture as well.

Hohokum Petraglyps

Pre-Fountain Hills residents left their mark in the wash that coincides in the area of the lower mine shaft.  This remains one of my all time favorite biking adventures.  The area is a mini ecosystem of cottonwoods, grass, and lots of shade.  Its an obvious wash but to me it looks like it may have been a small stream at one time.  I remember stopping to take a break to just catch my breath and enjoy the scenery when i noticed the nearly 5 ft tall petraglyph pictured here. The Hohokum lived in the area from 1-1450 A.D.  There are many theories as to why they departed. Interestingly, they also built canals near the City of Grace Mesa campus.